Gourt > Recreation > Climbing > Aid Climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. In the Yosemite Decimal System used in the US, it is sometimes called "6th class" climbing.
The term contrasts with free climbing in which no artificial aids are used to make progress. In aid climbing, the climber ascends by hanging on, and climbing on, his or her equipment; in free climbing the climber ascends by holding onto, and stepping on, natural features of the rock, using rope and equipment only to catch them in case of a fall, and to hang on at belay stations. In general, aid climbing places less emphasis on athletic fitness and physical strength but more on technical skill, though the physical aspects of hard aid climbing should not be underestimated. Aid techniques are most often utilized on extremely steep and long routes, demanding great endurance and stamina, both physical and mental.
Technique
In a typical ascent with aid the climber places pieces of equipment ("protection") in cracks or other natural features of the rock, then clips an aider (a ladder-like device, also called stirrup or étrier) to the protection, stands up on the aider, and repeats the process. Just as in free climbing, the usual technique involves two climbers, a leader and a belayer. The leader is connected by a rope to the belayer, who remains at one spot (the "belay station") while the leader moves up. As the leader advances, the rope is let out by the belayer, and clipped by the leader into the pieces of protection as they are placed. If the leader falls, the belayer locks off the rope and, assuming the protection doesn't rip out, catches the leader's fall on the rope. When the leader, moving up, reaches the end of the rope, or a convenient stopping point, he or she builds an anchor, hangs on it, and fixes the rope to it. This then becomes the next belay station. The belayer then ascends the fixed rope using mechanical ascenders, retrieving the protection that was placed by the leader. Meanwhile, the leader sets up a hauling system and, using another rope brought up for that purpose, hauls up a bag (the "haul bag" or "pig") containing the climbers' food, water, hammocks or "porta-ledge", sleeping bags, and so on. Many variations on this basic technique are possible, including solo aid climbing and climbing with a team of three. More on [ Aid climbing ]
stoked my pic of @vanrenen aid climbing in Yosemite will be in the next MathWorks 11 textbook - http://bit.ly/6wTCen #secretmathgeek
marialy (Maria Ly) Tue, 15 Dec 2009 23:31:29 -0000
stoked my pic of @vanrenen aid climbing in Yosemite will be in the next MathWorks 11 textbook - http://bit.ly/6wTCen #secretmathgeek
damnit just sliced my hand open and its bleeding like a right mofo...thank god for my climbing first aid kit!! ;( it hurts tho *sob**sniff*
alexchafer (Alex Chafer) Sun, 13 Dec 2009 23:12:57 -0000
damnit just sliced my hand open and its bleeding like a right mofo...thank god for my climbing first aid kit!! ;( it hurts tho *sob**sniff*
i think i might FINALLY be satisfied with my spring schedule! i dropped boring ballet and added ROCK CLIMBING and first aid/cpr.
moderndayjane (Ashton Flynn) Sat, 12 Dec 2009 20:37:27 -0000
i think i might FINALLY be satisfied with my spring schedule! i dropped boring ballet and added ROCK CLIMBING and first aid/cpr.
Aid Climbing in a Three Person Team - Article by Ken Younge and Tuan Luong giving personal experiences, tips, and techniques.
Big Wall Climbing - Trip reports. Ratings explained. Equipment list. Photos. Route suggestions.
Bigwall.com - Topos, beta, trip reports and photos from walls in Yosemite, the Sierra Nevada, Zion, Fisher Towers and Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Plus the Aid Climbing Guide to Southern California.
Climbing Magazine: Big Walls - Article by Pete Takeda on how to get started.
Meta Description: [ Climbing Magazine’s mission is to inspire people to climb, to seek new challenges, and to learn about the great diversity of our sport. We strive to be thoughtful, inclusive, and unswervingly authentic. We look out for the long-term vitality of our sport and our community by providing leadership,... ]
Hints For Big-Wall Climbing in Yosemite - Tips for beginners, climbing in a three person team, soloing, hauling, and improving speed compiled by Q. Tuan Luong.
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Meta Description: [ SuperTopo offers the world's best rock climbing and mountaineering route information for Yosemite National Park in both online downloadable format and in printed books ]
TradGirl Climbing FAQ: Aid Climbing - Frequently asked questions about aid climbing with answers compiled from rec.climbing.
Meta Description: [ Frequently asked questions about aid climbing. ]
Trango Russian Aid System Review - Review from GearReview.com.
Meta Description: [ A review of the Trango Russian Aid System for aid climbing ]
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